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Courmayeur is an attractive alpine town on the Italian
side of Mont Blanc. With 100km of largely intermediate pistes
it won't keep any pros happy all week. Nevertheless, those
who enjoy leisurely cruising along, fantastic food up and down
the mountain, splendid vistas, and a positively charming base,
Courmayeur is definitely for you.
Alternatively, consider a shorter break in Courmayeur,
or stay a while and use it as a base to explore nearby resorts
such as La Thuile and Chamonix. Thanks to the re-opening of the
Mont Blanc tunnel, it's once again accessible from Geneva
in ninety minutes, and consequently closer than many French resorts
when driving from the UK or Northern Europe.
With Turin not too far away either, Courmayeur is
an obvious choice with those looking to tie up cheap flights and
odd durations with a ski/snowboard a holiday, and many of the
hotels will accept these outside the peak weeks.
Those worried about the resort height should be
re-assured that the actually slopes really begin at 1700m, the
slopes face north/north-west and there's plenty of snow making
to ensure conditions remain good throughout the crux of the season.
These slopes rise to the Cresta d'Arp at 2755m
and although varied, suit intermediates far more than any other
group. Everyone will need to take the cable car from the town
to Plan Checrouit(1700m) in order to progress up the mountain,
however it's possible in good conditions to take a blue run
down to Dolonne(1210m) and hop on a bus back to the centre.
Beginners have a dedicated area at Plan Checrouit
which can get busy, and there are only selective areas of the
mountain where most will be able to gain confidence. In this sense,
it's not ideal, but for a group with some beginners, who
are as interested in having a good time off the slopes, do not
discount Courmayeur, there are worse resorts to start off.
At the other end of the spectrum, decent riders
and skiers have some excellent off-piste/back country terrain
to take advantage of. From the Cresta d'Alp and Cresta Youla(2624m)
there are several itinery routes to explore, preferably with a
guide, although many do not bother. These all stray well away
from the official pistes, so there's less chance that they
will be tracked out quickly.
Moving away from Courmayeur main ski area, good
intermediates and advanced levels can take the cable car from
nearby La Palud up to Punta Helbronner(3470m) on Mont Blanc and
take the semi off piste route down to join up with the famous
Vallee Blanche run down into Chamonix, and hop on a bus back through
the tunnel. You will need a Mont Blanc pass or pay a surcharge
to do this though.
From Punta Helbronner, a more tricky off-piste
excursion is the 10km down the Toula glacier to La Palud. Definitely
bring a guide on this one as you're exposed to fixed ropes
and generally very awkward entry before getting into the swing
of things.
Finally, those with experience should also try some
heli-drops. Italian rates are on the cheaper side for Europe,
and there's some awesome terrain to be explored.
Off-the slopes is where Courmayeur, really stands
out. It's traditional traffic-free and cobbled street centre
provides the centre piece for what is one of the Italians'
favourite resorts.
In line with the general philosophy, eating, drinking
and partying are all taken very seriously. At the weekends, the
fashionable crowds flock from nearby Turin and Milan to create
a buzz to match any resort. It has to be said, it is a more civilised
buzz, than in most resorts, but never exclusive, and reports on
the friendliness of the locals keep coming in.
In fact this is enjoyed equally up the mountain,
where being active takes second place to eating, boozing and soaking
up the rays.
Staying in Courmayeur is a joy in itself, and accommodation
is largely hotel based. Our advice to try a B & B or self-catered
apartments and eat out, but if you do half-board you'll save
cash and probably have good food anyway. Independent catered chalets
are presently unknown to us, but again you'd be missing out
on the variety here.
Complaints involve the walk to the cable car, not
enough pistes, not enough variety of pistes and the crowds at
weekends. However, if you sign up to all of these, you're
missing the point of Courmayeur and are best off elsewhere anyway.
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