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Zermatt is a year round resort surrounded by some of Europe's
highest peaks, however it is the view of the Matterhorn for which
it is so famous. The view of the knife-edged peak, adorns much
of Switzerland's memorabilia, from chocolate bars to wrist
watches.
Away from the skyline's dramatic scenery, the town itself
only adds to the vista, with grand hotels and rustic alpine chalets
sprawling across valley bottom, bisected by a river and hemmed
in by the steep forested valley sides. Within the car-free streets
are hundreds of boutiques, cafes, restaurants and nightclubs.
Literally something for all tastes, not just fur coats and big-price
watches as you might expect.
As for the terrain, it is not so accessible to all tastes. Beginners
are well advised to learn elsewhere and return to Zermatt, when
they are happy on blue and red runs. People do learn to ski and
snowboard(one of the best snowboard schools in the Alps- Stoked
is based here) in Zermatt, but it is less than ideal for confidence
building.
In contrast, it is a fantastic resort for competent intermediates
and advanced skiers/riders with both cruisey and testing runs,
open sunny slopes and darker forest clad runs. There are decent
off-piste opportunities, but for the most part you would do well
to go with a local guide, or you could easily end up down a crevasse.
However, the drawback to staying in a traditional Alpine resort
such as Zermatt, is that they have not been tailored with the
skiers' convenience in mind. This is especially the case
here, but most feel it is a small price to pay.
The ski areas split down into essentially two separate areas.
The first is served by the Sunegga funicular lift and the Gornergrat
alpine railway which serve the Rothorn (3103m)and the Stokhorn
(3405m) respectively. Both of these mountain trains leave from
close to the centre of resort, and if you can find accommodation
close to these access points, all the better. The Stokhorn and
Rothorn mountains interlink effectively making this sector the
more popular.
A good 10-15minute walk, bus ride, electronic taxi ride or horse
drawn carriage ride (for these are the only permitted methods
or getting about here) is the gondola station which will take
you up to the Klein Matterhorn sector. The slopes here rise to
3820m, the highest piste skiing in Europe, and you can connect
up with slopes down to Cervinia in Italy if you have the right
lift pass. Back in Switzerland and the higher slopes are wide
and flattering, but as you come down the mountain you will have
to work harder as testing pistes and off-piste will sort out the
men from the boys.
Basically if you come to Zermatt, be prepared for some walking,
and if you can't be dealing with it, try a different resort.
However, you would be missing out on a tremendous alpine experience.
Not only is this a high snow-sure, attractive resort with great
slopes and a stunning backdrop, it has plenty to do off the slopes
for non-skiers, heady après-ski and lively, varied nightlife
well into the early hours. And finally, note should be made of
Zermatt's reputation for it's gastronomy. The mountain
restaurants, notably at Findeln on the Rothorn, are world famous
for delicious and long lunches.
These can be pricey, as can the resort be as a whole, but it
is a myth to think it is any more than some of the top French
resorts. In fact there are several myths about Zermatt, worth
dispelling. Another is that it is purely an upmarket destination.
There are hundreds of hotels, guesthouses, chalets and self-catering
apartments to choose from. Zermatt also has a healthy attitude
to snowboarders with excellent tuition, a decent park and pipe,
and some worthwhile late-night hang outs.
If you do pay a premium to stay in Zermatt, we think it's
worth it, and whilst there may be more down-to-earth resorts out
there, there are too many pluses to ignore one of the world's
best Alpine resorts.
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